Located 2 hours and 40 minutes north of Tokyo by train, the Tôshôgû Shrine in Nikkô is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate and the man who ushered in the Edo period (1603-1867).

For the Japanese, this period symbolizes 250 years of peace during which Japan flourished culturally and economically. Most traditional Japanese arts and customs developed during this time, making it an era of great significance for the Japanese people.

The History of Tôshôgû Shrine in Nikkô

The shrine was built in 1617 by Tokugawa Hidetada (1579-1632), the son of Tokugawa Ieyasu, to honor his father’s memory. However, most of the buildings you see today date back to 1636, when Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604-1651), Hidetada’s son, significantly expanded the site.

Since 1999, the site has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is of great importance to the Japanese people due to the national treasures it houses.

Interestingly, Tokugawa Ieyasu was initially buried in 1616 at the Kunozan Tôshôgû Shrine in Shizuoka (a city located midway between Tokyo and Kyoto). His remains were soon moved to the Nikkô mausoleum according to his wishes. However, some say that his body was never actually transferred, as the acidic soil in Japan prevents bone preservation, making it impossible to verify.

What to See at the Shrine?

The shrine complex includes over 50 richly decorated buildings, with construction costs estimated at over 300 million euros. Here’s a list of the most important structures, in the order you would visit them:

Ishidorii, the Stone Gate

As a Shinto shrine, the entrance features an enormous stone torii gate. It was donated by the governor of northern Kyûshû (Fukuoka) in 1618 and was transported by ship and carried on foot to Nikkô.

Gojunoto, the Five-Story Pagoda

Just to the left after the large Torii, you can see the Five-Story Pagoda. It was donated by the governor of the area corresponding to present-day Fukui (north of Nagoya) in 1648. The current structure dates from 1818, after the original was destroyed in 1815.

Omotemon, the Main Gate

Straight ahead, you’ll arrive at the massive gate marking the entrance to the shrine, flanked by two guardian deities.

Sanjinko, the Three Sacred Storehouses

Upon entering the grounds, three buildings will stand before you: Kamijinko (Upper Sacred Storehouse), Nakajinko (Middle Sacred Storehouse), and Shimojinko (Lower Sacred Storehouse). They house the costumes used for the 1,000 Samurai Ceremony held in spring and fall. The Kamijinko storehouse is adorned with large elephant carvings by Kano Tanyu, known as "imaginary elephants" since the artist had never seen a real one.

Shinkyûsha et Sansaru, the Stable and the Three Monkeys

Just to the left after passing the main gate, you’ll find the Shinkyûsha stable, which houses horses during ceremonies.

The stable features a frieze of eight panels depicting three little monkeys (Sansaru), also known as the "wise monkeys." These three monkeys are guardians of horses from antiquity and are quite famous. The frieze is one of the oldest known representations in Japan. The first monkey covers its eyes, the second its mouth, and the third its ears, with the associated moral being "See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil."

Omizuya, the Purification Basin

Continuing along the path, to the left, you’ll find the purification basin, where visitors cleanse their hands and rinse their mouths before entering the inner shrine. It was donated in 1618 by Nabeshima Katsushige, lord of Saga (Kyûshû Prefecture).

Yomeimon, the Shining Gate

Finally, you’ll reach the gate to the inner shrine area, with the glittering Yomeimon Gate guarded by two Zuijin deities. This national treasure of Japan is one of the most beautiful gates in the country. Built in 1636, it’s called the "Main Gate of the Imperial Court" or the "Sunset Gate" because people can admire it from morning to evening without growing tired. It is covered with about 500 carvings depicting traditional life, including playing children.

Kairô, the Corridor

After passing through the Yomeimon Gate, admire the walls on the left and right, also designated as national treasures. The incredible carvings depict flowers and birds on a single panel in vibrant colors and are considered some of the finest in Japan.

Shinyosha, the Portable Shrines

This golden building houses the three portable shrines used during the sacred ceremonies held in spring (May 18) and autumn (October 17).

Karamon, the Chinese Gate

This final gate gives access to the heart of the shrine. It is entirely painted in white chalk and features carvings of Kyoko and Soho, legendary Chinese sages in audience with the emperor.

Gohonsha, the Main Hall

Annual ceremonies are held in this large building, which is divided into three richly decorated rooms: Honden (main hall), Haiden (prayer hall), and Ishinoma (stone chamber). It is not open to the public.

Kitôden, the Prayer Hall

This annex to the temple is used for celebrating weddings, births, and various other ceremonies.

Nemuri neko, the Sleeping Cat

Look for the sculpture of a sleeping cat created by the master Hidari Jingorô. It depicts a dozing cat surrounded by peonies and bathed in sunlight, a reference to Nikkô, which literally means "sunbeam." The master was fascinated by cats and secluded himself for eight months to capture the essence of a cat in this perfect representation. This sculpture is considered his finest work.

Okumiya, the Tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu

To conclude your visit, climb the grand staircase (over 200 steps) and follow the path through the cedars to reach the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The area consists of three buildings: a prayer hall, the Inukimon bronze gate, and the two-story Gohoto pagoda. The pagoda stands 5 meters tall and is made of a gold alloy. It was built in 1683 to replace the original wooden pagoda that burned down. The tomb has never been opened since the Shogun’s burial in 1617.

Tôshôgû Museum in Nikkô

At the entrance to the shrine, you’ll find the Tôshôgû Museum in Nikkô. It features a collection of prints and artifacts related to Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. The museum is open during the same hours as the shrine, and admission costs 1,000 yen (~$8.50).

Events at Tôshôgû Shrine in Nikkô

The Grand Spring Festival (Shunki Reitaisai) is the most important event for the shrine. On May 17th, a ceremony attended by the head of the Tokugawa family and invited guests takes place at 10:00 AM. At 1:00 PM, you can enjoy a horseback archery show. On May 18th, the portable shrines are paraded at around 11:00 AM, escorted by the "1,000 Samurai Procession," which includes over 1,200 participants in 53 categories, such as armored warriors. A similar ceremony takes place on October 16th and 17th, though with fewer participants.

These ceremonies are extremely popular, attracting thousands of visitors from Tokyo. If you plan to attend, be sure to reserve a spot on the train or book a hotel well in advance.

The shrine also hosts several other ceremonies:

• January

  • January 1st: New Year’s celebration and prayer

• February

  • Day before the first day of spring: Spring Festival
  • February 11th: Foundation Day

• May

  • May 17th at 10:00 AM: Grand Spring Festival, horseback archery show
  • May 18th: Grand Spring Festival, 1,000 Samurai Ceremony

• August

  • August 17th and 18th: Kendô Tournament

• October

  • October 16th: Grand Autumn Festival, sacred horseback archery
  • October 17th: Grand Autumn Festival, 1,000 Samurai Ceremony
  • Cake Exhibition
  • Chrysanthemum Exhibition

• November

  • November 3rd: Meiji Emperor’s Birthday Celebration

• December

  • December 23rd: Emperor’s Birthday Celebration
  • December 31st: Year-End Celebration

How to Get to Tôshôgû Shrine in Nikkô?

The city of Nikkô is located quite a distance north of Tokyo. The fastest and most affordable way to get there is by taking the direct "Nikko-Kinugawa" line operated by Tobu. The train departs from Asakusa Station in Tokyo and terminates in Nikkô. The journey takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes and costs around 20 €.

Alternatively, you can take the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Utsunomiya Station, then transfer to the "JR Nikkô" line to reach Nikkô. This option is more expensive (~50 €) and takes longer, about 2 hours and 40 minutes.