Nikkô Tôshôgû Shrine 日光東照宮

Nestled in the wooded mountains of Nikkô, about 2 hours and 40 minutes by train from Tôkyô, the Tôshôgû Shrine (東照宮) is both an architectural marvel and a major historical symbol.

Built to honor Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616), the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, this shrine marks the beginning of the Edo period (1603–1868), an era of peace and prosperity that shaped traditional Japan.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, Tôshôgû captivates visitors with the richness of its decorations and its deep cultural significance for the Japanese people.

What is the history of Tôshôgû Shrine in Nikkô ?

The shrine was originally constructed in 1617 by Tokugawa Hidetada, the second shôgun and son of Ieyasu, to honor his illustrious father. However, most of the structures you see today date back to 1636, when Tokugawa Iemitsu, Ieyasu’s grandson, oversaw major expansions.

Did you know Tokugawa Ieyasu was first buried at the Kunozan Tôshôgû Shrine in Shizuoka?

His remains were later moved to Nikkô, fulfilling his final wishes. Yet, a legend persists: some believe his body never left Shizuoka, and Japan's acidic soil makes archaeological verification impossible...

Must-see spots inside the Tôshôgû Shrine

With over 50 lavishly decorated structures, exploring Tôshôgû feels like stepping into a world of vibrant colors, gold leaf, and intricate symbolism. Here are the highlights you shouldn't miss.

Ishidorii, the Stone Gate

The first major landmark is the massive stone torii, donated in 1618 by the governor of northern Kyûshû. Symbolizing the transition from the mundane to the sacred, it was painstakingly transported across Japan and continues to impress with its strength and grandeur.

Gojunoto, the Five-Story Pagoda

To the left after Ishidorii stands the majestic Gojunoto (五重塔), originally gifted by the Lord of Fukui in 1648 and rebuilt in 1818 after a fire. Each level represents one of the five elements: earth, water, fire, wind, and sky.

Omotemon, the Main Gate

Passing through Omotemon (表門) marks your formal entry into the shrine. Two imposing guardian statues (Niô) stand watch, warding off evil spirits.

Sanjinko, the Three Sacred Storehouses

Facing you are three aligned buildings—Kamijinko, Nakajinko, and Shimojinko—housing the ornate costumes used during the famed 1,000 Samurai Procession.

Don't miss the "imaginary elephants" painted on the upper storehouse: despite never having seen real elephants, artist Kano Tanyu created a whimsical and captivating vision.

Shinkyûsha et Sansaru, the Stable and the Three Monkeys

On your left, you’ll find the Shinkyûsha stable, adorned with the famous carving of the three wise monkeys:

• Mizaru (see no evil)
• Kikazaru (hear no evil)
• Iwazaru (speak no evil)

This philosophical representation reflects the deep moral values of Shintoism.

Omizuya, the Purification Basin

Take a moment at the Omizuya to perform the traditional purification ritual:

• Scoop water with your right hand, rinse your left hand.
• Rinse your right hand.
• Pour water into your left hand to rinse your mouth (never drink directly from the ladle!).

Yomeimon, the Shining Gate

A true masterpiece, Yomeimon (陽明門) is known as the "Gate of the Setting Sun" because its intricate details can captivate you all day long.

Featuring over 500 carvings of daily life scenes, mythical animals, and legendary tales, it showcases the magnificence of Edo-period art.

Kairô, the Corridor

Flanking the gate, the walls of Kairô are adorned with stunning polychrome carvings of flowers, birds, and seasonal landscapes—so exquisite that they, too, are designated national treasures.

Shinyosha, the Portable Shrines

This golden building houses three mikoshi (portable shrines) used in the major spring and autumn festivals.

Karamon, the Chinese Gate

The white Karamon, coated in chalk, is the last gate before reaching the spiritual heart of the shrine. Its intricate carvings depict legendary Chinese scholars.

Gohonsha, the Main Shrine Building

Composed of the Honden (本殿, main sanctuary), the Haiden (拝殿, prayer hall), and the Ishinoma (石の間, stone chamber), Gohonsha is the core of Tôshôgû. Unfortunately, it’s closed to the public to protect its treasures.

Kitôden, the Prayer Hall

This hall hosts Shinto weddings and private prayer ceremonies, offering a serene space for worship.

Nemuri neko, the Sleeping Cat

Carved by master sculptor Hidari Jingorô, the Nemuri Neko (眠り猫) shows a cat peacefully dozing beneath blooming peonies, symbolizing peace and prosperity.

Fascinated by cats, Hidari Jingorô isolated himself for eight months to capture the essence of feline serenity.

Okumiya, the Tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu

After climbing more than 200 stone steps through a forest of ancient cedars, you’ll reach the Okumiya, where Ieyasu’s golden pagoda tomb has rested undisturbed since 1617.

Tôshôgû Museum in Nikkô

Located at the entrance to the shrine, the Tôshôgû Museum displays personal artifacts, armor, handwritten letters, and woodblock prints related to Tokugawa Ieyasu and the shrine itself.

• Hours: Same as the shrine
• Admission: 1,000 yen

Festivals and traditional events at Tôshôgû Shrine

The shrine comes alive during its vibrant annual festivals. The major events are highlighted below:

The Grand Spring and Autumn Festivals are particularly popular, attracting thousands of visitors from Tôkyô. If you plan to attend, make sure to book your train tickets and accommodations well in advance!

How to get to Tôshôgû Shrine in Nikkô?

Most convenient option

• Tobu Train (Nikko-Kinugawa Line) from Asakusa Station: ~1 hour 50 minutes, around 20 €.
• Direct, affordable, perfect for a day trip — but not covered by the JR Pass.

Tobu also offers two travel passes, including the highly recommended "Nikko Pass World Heritage" for a 2-day trip.

Option with the JR Pass

Take the Shinkansen from Tôkyô Station to Utsunomiya, then transfer to the JR Nikkô Line to Nikkô Station.

• About 2 hours 40 minutes, around 50 €.