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Omoide Yokochô

What Secrets Lie in Omoide Yokochô, Shinjuku?

Just west of Shinjuku Station, a small alley near Uniqlo might go unnoticed by many passersby. Yet, it offers a striking contrast to the surrounding modernity with its post-war ambiance. Welcome to Omoide Yokochô, a place filled with nostalgia where tiny restaurants emit enticing smoke and mouth-watering aromas in a lively atmosphere.

Entrance from the street
Entrance from the street
View of the street in autumn
View of the street in autumn

What’s the History of This Neighborhood?

Literally translated, Omoide Yokochô "思い出横丁" means “Memory Lane.” This name evokes nostalgia and recalls a bygone era.

Typical restaurant with a few seats spilling onto the street
Typical restaurant with a few seats spilling onto the street

After World War II, Japan was marked by many black markets, and Omoide Yokochô, located along Shinjuku Station, was one of them. Although dangerous at the time, it was essential for finding food and supplies.

The construction of the current Shinjuku Station in the 1960s led to the demolition of much of this market. Another blow to the area was the great fire of 1999, which ravaged part of the zone.

Western part of Shinjuku Station in 1962
Western part of Shinjuku Station in 1962
Western part of Shinjuku on Google Earth in 2020
Western part of Shinjuku on Google Earth in 2020

Today, only a few safe alleys remain, housing about sixty bars and restaurants. These establishments, although legal, have managed to preserve the spirit of yesteryears despite the pressure from real estate developers eager to transform every square meter into skyscrapers.

Google Earth view of the Omoide Yokochô district
Google Earth view of the Omoide Yokochô district

What Can You Eat in Omoide Yokochô?

Don’t expect haute cuisine or luxurious service in Omoide Yokochô. The restaurants here offer typical izakaya dishes, such as yakitori (chicken skewers), grilled beef, and other tasty small plates.

The atmosphere is friendly and informal, ideal for groups wanting to share quickly served dishes, all accompanied by plenty of beer.

How to Prepare for Your Visit to Omoide Yokochô?

For most tourists, a simple walk through the street will suffice. But if you plan to spend an evening there, note that the street has its own website where you can find a map and a list of restaurants in English. A PDF version of the map is also available for printing.

View of Omoide Yokochô in spring

Although the shops mainly open in the evening, their hours can vary; it is recommended to check the website for detailed information. On-site, most restaurants offer English menus, making it easier for non-Japanese speakers to choose dishes. Smoking is prohibited on the street but is generally allowed once seated.

Even if you don’t plan to eat in Omoide Yokochô, it’s fun to take a stroll to soak up this unique atmosphere, so different from what we are used to.

 

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