Japan is full of treasures, and the ancient Nakasendô route in the Kiso Valley, nestled in the Japanese Alps, is one of them. During the Edo period (1603-1868), this path connected Kyôto to Edo (now Tôkyô) with 69 post towns spread over 534 km, providing rest stops for travelers.
Today, some sections of this path still exist, particularly between Magome Juku and Tsumago Juku. This 8 km stretch offers a magnificent hike through nature.
The History of the Nakasendô
The Nakasendô (中山道), literally "the road through the mountains," is one of the five major routes established at the beginning of the Edo era (1603-1868) by the Tokugawa Shogunate. This period, marked by the reunification of Japan, saw significant improvements in the road network to facilitate the movement of lords and the transportation of goods.
The Nakasendô connected Edo (now Tôkyô) to Kyôto over 534 km, with 69 post towns where travelers could rest. Officially established in 1716, this route used pre-existing segments between different towns.
Although most of the Nakasendô has been replaced by modern roads or forgotten, some segments, particularly between Magome Juku and Tsumago Juku, have been preserved. This 8 km path offers a picturesque hike through nature, allowing visitors to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Kiso Valley.
All post town names on the Nakasendô end with "宿" pronounced "Juku," meaning inn or lodge. Therefore, you will see "Magome Juku" (馬籠宿) on signs indicating the town offers lodgings.
Planning Your Nakasendô Hike
The complete itinerary is perfect for a sunny day. You’ll find places to eat in Tsumago Juku and Magome Juku, which are small but very tourist-friendly towns. Be sure to bring water, as there are no vending machines on the path. Free restrooms are available along the route.
The itinerary we present goes through Nakatsugawa, Magome Juku, Tsumago Juku, and Nagiso, but it can be done in reverse. If you want to shorten it, you can start at the JR Ochiaigawa station instead of the JR Nakatsugawa station. We've created a complete hiking map with points of interest, available on Google Maps.
From JR Nakatsugawa Station to Magome Juku: 3 Hours / 9 km
Start your adventure at JR Nakatsugawa station (中津川 / "the port in the middle of the river"), a modern town where you will find signs to join the Nakasendô.
For a direct start towards Magome Juku, a bus is available near the station. Otherwise, walk 350 meters on the main avenue to a road with white and yellow stones. Turn right to visit the old town center and the Nakatsugawa Juku inn, the 45th stop on the Nakasendô. Turn left to start the Nakasendô hike.
You’ll soon find a road that climbs with a small temple and a pedestrian bridge crossing a national road. Once across, you'll find another road with white and yellow stones. From there, always follow this road and the signs indicating the "Nakasendô / 中山道".
This portion of the hike is very scenic, with countryside views and some high vantage points, including a beautiful red bridge in the background.
Midway, you'll pass through a small village with old houses, including the Ochiai Juku inn, the 44th stop on the Nakasendô. You’ll continue into the forest on an old part of the trail with a stone-paved ground.
Further along, you’ll have a choice between several paths. Unfortunately, the sign explaining the paths is entirely in Japanese (see photo below), indicating that the path has evolved over the years to offer simpler and quicker alternatives following the construction of bridges. Regardless of the chosen path, you will arrive at the same place: Magome Juku!
Magome Juku: A Picturesque Village
Magome Juku (馬籠宿 / "inn of the horse enclosure"), the 43rd stop on the Nakasendô, is a charming village with traditional wooden houses and cobblestone streets.
Here you’ll find souvenir shops, inns, and cafes, including the "HillBilly Coffee Company," recommended for its delicious drinks despite somewhat slow service.
From Magome Juku to Tsumago Juku: 2 Hours / 8 km
The hike between Magome Juku and Tsumago Juku follows the original Nakasendô trail through the forest.
You’ll see signs warning of bears, with "anti-bear" bells available to reassure hikers. These warnings are not just folklore. Encounters with bears are becoming more frequent in Japan, though they are more common in Hokkaidô.
Along the way, take a break at a traditional house for complimentary tea and cake. Consider making a small donation for the service. A bit further, you’ll find the Otaki and Metaki waterfalls, which offer a refreshing pause.
Tsumago Juku: Another Historical Gem
Tsumago Juku (妻籠宿 / "inn where married women spend the night"), the 42nd stop on the Nakasendô, is another well-preserved village. You can stroll through narrow streets, admire traditional houses, and visit its watermill.
From Tsumago Juku to JR Nagiso Station: 1 Hour / 4 km
To reach JR Nagiso station (南木曾 / "big tree of the south"), continue your hike through varied landscapes of town, countryside, and forest. The station is small, so plan your train schedule in advance to avoid a long wait.
How to Reach the Nakasendô
The preserved part of the Nakasendô is not directly accessible from a city served by train. First, you need to get to the villages of Magome Juku or Tsumago Juku.
If you’re hiking between these two villages and traveling by train, you will take the JR Chûô line, which passes through the major cities of Nagoya and Matsumoto:
- Magome is near JR Nakatsugawa and JR Ochiaigawa stations.
- Tsumago is near JR Nagiso station.
You can walk or take a bus between the JR stations and the villages. Be sure to prioritize JR Express trains to avoid many stops on the JR Chûô line. Since it’s a JR line, you can use your JR Pass.
Best Time to Hike the Nakasendô
The Nakasendô is accessible year-round, but the best times are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) for pleasant weather. Avoid winter, when the path can be snowy, and summer, when high temperatures can be uncomfortable. Always carry water, as there are few vending machines along the route.
Luggage Transfer Service Between Magome Juku and Tsumago Juku
A luggage transfer service is available at the tourist offices of Magome Juku and Tsumago Juku, between 8:40 AM and 11:40 AM, with bag pickup between 1:00 PM and 5:00 PM for 1,000 yen (~$7) per bag. This service operates from March 20 to the end of November but is closed in winter due to low visitor numbers.
