Hashima Island (端島), better known as Gunkanjima (軍艦島), is a site as fascinating as it is eerie. Located about 20 km southwest of Nagasaki, this abandoned island intrigues visitors with its unique industrial past and fortress-like appearance.
Its nickname, which means "Battleship Island," comes from its silhouette, which resembles a warship, with massive concrete buildings rising from the sea like a naval vessel’s turrets. Today, Hashima is a controversial historical site, embodying both Japan’s industrial glory and painful past.
The Story of Hashima Island
Gunkanjima’s history is deeply connected to Japan’s rapid industrialization during the Meiji era (1868–1912).
While the island’s coal deposits were discovered as early as 1810, large-scale mining only began in 1887 with the installation of permanent infrastructure. In 1890, Mitsubishi Goshi Kaisha purchased the island, expanding and modernizing it to maximize coal extraction.
An Artificially Expanded Island to House Miners
As mining activity grew, the originally tiny island tripled in size through land reclamation, making space for new facilities, including:
- Four coal mines, some extending more than a kilometer beneath the seabed
- Japan’s first reinforced concrete building (a seven-story apartment complex built in 1916)
- Schools, a hospital, shops, a cinema, and even a brothel
At its peak in 1959, Gunkanjima housed 5 259 residents on just 6.3 hectares. With a staggering density of 83 500 people/km² (nearly seven times that of central Paris), it was one of the most densely populated places in the world at the time.
Extreme Living Conditions
Life on Hashima was far from comfortable. Due to limited space, buildings were constructed vertically, apartments were tiny, and streets were narrow and claustrophobic.
Working in the mines was brutal:
- Temperatures exceeding 30°C (86°F)
- Humidity levels over 95%
- Air filled with coal dust
- Frequent accidents in underground tunnels
Despite the harsh conditions, the island functioned as a self-sustaining mini-city, with schools, entertainment, and markets allowing families to lead a somewhat normal life ... until its abrupt abandonment.
Hashima during World War II
The island also has a dark past, particularly during World War II. As Japan expanded its empire, thousands of Korean and Chinese forced laborers were brought to Hashima to support the war effort.
Already grueling working conditions became inhumane:
- Exhausting forced labor with little rest
- Physical abuse and malnutrition
- Dangerous mines filled with toxic gases
- Failed escape attempts met with severe punishment
- Estimates suggest between 800 and 1 300 forced laborers were sent to the island during the war.
The 2017 South Korean film "Battleship Island" brought this history to a wider audience, though it mixes fact with fiction. The movie sparked controversy in Japan, where its depiction of events was criticized.
UNESCO World Heritage Controversy
In 2009, Japan proposed Hashima Island for UNESCO World Heritage status as a site symbolizing its industrial revolution.
This triggered backlash, particularly from South Korea, due to the wartime atrocities committed on the island. Despite the controversy, UNESCO approved the designation in 2015, under the condition that Japan formally acknowledge the suffering of forced laborers.
However, in 2020, Japan opened an information center in Tokyo to celebrate Hashima’s industrial history. It was heavily criticized for downplaying the island’s darker past. UNESCO continues to pressure Japan to fully acknowledge all aspects of Hashima’s history.
Visiting Gunkanjima Today
Since 2009, Hashima has been open to visitors, though access is restricted to designated areas for safety reasons. Tours are primarily in Japanese, so bringing an English guidebook is recommended.
The journey to Hashima departs from Nagasaki Port and takes about one hour. Before arrival, a documentary video is shown to explain the island’s history.
Once on the island, visitors must stay on a marked path due to the risk of falling debris and crumbling structures. The 45-minute tour includes three observation points, offering dramatic views of the ruins and a glimpse into the island’s once-thriving life.
How to Get to Gunkanjima
Several companies offer boat tours from Nagasaki:
- Gunkanjima Landing & Cruise: Departs at 9:00 AM / 1:40 PM from Nagasaki Port Terminal (open 8:15 AM - 5:00 PM)
- Gunkanjima Cruise: Departs at 9:40 AM / 2:00 PM near Nagasaki Port Terminal (open 8:40 AM - 5:00 PM)
Tours depend on weather conditions. If the sea is rough, the boat may only circle the island or the tour may be canceled. It’s best to check the weather forecast on the tour companies' websites 1–2 days in advance.
Buying Tickets: Since the websites can be unclear, it’s best to buy tickets in person about 30 minutes before departure.
Virtual Tours of Gunkanjima
If you can’t visit in person, there are virtual options:
- Google Street View: In 2013, Google digitized much of Gunkanjima, allowing a free virtual tour.
- Gunkanjima Digital Museum (Nagasaki): Located near Oura Church, this museum offers an interactive 3D experience with detailed historical reconstructions.
- Admission: ¥1 800 (~12 €)
- Duration: About 1 hour
- Hours: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Access: Ouratenshudo tram stop (大浦天主堂), near the Oura Church
