Hashima Island, also known as "Gunkanjima" (軍艦島), lies about 20 km southwest of Nagasaki in the Sea of Japan.
This abandoned island, covering just 6.3 hectares, has captured global attention due to its remarkable history and unique appearance. Nicknamed "Battleship Island," its silhouette resembles a warship, with concrete buildings rising like the turrets of a naval vessel.
The Story of Hashima Island
The history of Hashima Island is closely tied to Japan's industrial boom during the Meiji era.
Discovered in 1810, the island drew attention for its coal deposits. However, it wasn't until 1887, with the establishment of permanent mining infrastructure, that the island saw continuous human settlement. In 1890, Mitsubishi Goshi Kaisha acquired the island to fully exploit its resources.
Over the decades, Hashima transformed into an industrial and urban complex. The island's land area tripled through land reclamation, pushing back the sea to make room for new facilities. Four mines were opened, extending up to a kilometer beneath the seabed. Working conditions were harsh, with temperatures around 30°C and 95% humidity.
To accommodate the influx of workers, the island modernized, beginning in 1916 with the construction of Japan's first reinforced concrete building—a seven-story apartment complex. This marked the start of rapid urbanization, with hospitals, schools, cinemas, shops, and even a brothel, turning the island into a bustling mini-city.
In 1959, the island's population peaked at 5,259, making it one of the most densely populated areas in the world, with 83,500 people per square kilometer—nearly seven times the population density of Paris. This record concentration highlights the challenges of life on Hashima, where every square meter was optimized to meet the needs of a community entirely focused on coal extraction.
Hashima During World War II
World War II was a dark period for Hashima Island. Japan's war effort required increased coal production, and the already grueling working conditions became even more severe.
Thousands of Koreans and Chinese were forcibly brought to the island to work in the mines, often under inhumane conditions. Though exact numbers are hard to determine, it’s estimated that between 800 and 1,300 forced laborers lived and worked on the island, enduring extreme suffering and exploitation.
Survivor accounts describe horrific living conditions, with forced laborers treated as subhuman and assigned the most dangerous tasks, such as mining in areas filled with toxic gases.
The Korean film "Battleship Island" brought this history to a wider audience, though it blends fact with fiction. The film sparked controversy in Japan, which criticized its portrayal of events.
UNESCO World Heritage Controversy
In 2009, Japan proposed Hashima Island for UNESCO World Heritage status as a site illustrating the country’s industrial revolution.
The proposal was met with criticism, particularly from South Korea, due to the wartime atrocities committed on the island. Despite these controversies, the island was granted UNESCO status in 2015, on the condition that Japan officially acknowledge the suffering of the forced laborers.
However, Japan's commitment to this promise has been questioned. In 2020, an information center opened in Tokyo to celebrate this heritage, but it was criticized for downplaying the island's darker history.
UNESCO continues to press Japan to fully honor its pledge to remember all aspects of the island's past.
Visiting Gunkanjima Today
Since the island opened to visitors in April 2009, Gunkanjima has become a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts and curious travelers alike. Although the visit is restricted to a designated path, it offers a striking glimpse into life on this harsh, desolate piece of land.
The journey from Nagasaki port takes about an hour, providing spectacular views of the coastline and Mitsubishi shipyards. Before arriving, an informative video is shown, detailing the history of Gunkanjima and its role in Japan’s modernization.
Once on the island, visitors must stay on a marked path due to the risk of falling debris and the advanced decay of the buildings. The tour lasts about 45 minutes, with three main observation points offering views of the imposing ruins and a chance to imagine the island's once-vibrant life.
Since explanations are primarily in Japanese, it's advisable to bring a map or guidebook for better understanding.
How to Get to Gunkanjima
Several companies offer tours to Gunkanjima from different Nagasaki ports, including:
- Gunkanjima Landing & Cruise operates from Nagasaki Port Terminal (open 8:15 AM - 5:00 PM) with departures at 9:00 AM and 1:40 PM.
- Gunkanjima Cruise has a location near Nagasaki Port Terminal (open 8:40 AM - 5:00 PM) with departures at 9:40 AM and 2:00 PM.
It's important to note that access to the island depends on weather conditions. In bad weather, the boat may circle the island or the tour could be canceled altogether. It’s recommended to check the weather forecast on the tour companies’ websites 1 or 2 days in advance.
Since the websites can be unclear, it’s best to buy tickets in person about 30 minutes before the boat's departure.
Virtual Tours of Gunkanjima
For those unable to visit the island in person, several virtual alternatives exist. In 2013, Google digitized much of Gunkanjima, allowing for a virtual exploration via Google Street View. This free experience offers a more comprehensive view of the island than the physical tour, without the safety constraints.
Additionally, the Gunkanjima Digital Museum in Nagasaki offers a fascinating digital immersion into the island’s history. Located near Oura Church and the "Ouratenshudo" tram stop (大浦天主堂), this museum uses simulations and interactive exhibits to transport visitors back to the island’s industrial heyday and the daily lives of its residents. Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, admission is ¥1,800 (~$12), and the tour lasts about an hour, with some presentations available in English.
